Rebecca Baldridge returns to Ireland’s County Kildare
for another luxurious adventure.
Darling, how would you like to go to Ireland with me?”
“Well….”
Darling can speak volumes in a single word.
“It won’t be like last time.”
“No endless stud farms, no tack shops, no muddy gallops, no riding?”
“Well, maybe one ride. I’m only human. But it’s a castle! Built in the 12th century! We’re going to stay in a castle and bask in luxury. You don’t even have to clap eyes on a horse. The castle is called Kilkea. Look it up online. I’ll wait.”
As you may have gathered, Darling is not an equestrian. While his patience with my obsession is that of a saint, every man has his limit. I waited. I had visited the website. I knew what was coming.
“Blimey!”
And so it was that several months later, Darling and I found ourselves speeding through the familiar countryside of County Kildare, this time in the back of an S-Class Mercedes. With Kilkea’s professional driver at the wheel, the chance of spontaneous stops at equestrian emporiums wasblessedly reduced. Besides, we were both wild with excitement to see the castle.
Once inside, it’s full-on baronial splendor. The reception area flows into a high-ceilinged gallery where leather sofas and colorful velvet chairs cluster around a capacious fireplace. It’s just the spot to curl up in front of the fire with a good book and a glass of fine Irish whiskey. My explorations reveal a snug in the far corner—a tiny room furnished with a carved wooden table and chairs where a small group of drinkers or a couple can retreat from the more public area.
We are to be accommodated in a carriage room, which entails a trip up a spiral stone staircase and passage down a long stone hallway lined with small windows. It’s deliciously medieval and one imagines bodiced chambermaids rushing up and down the passageway. Our room, however, is anything but medieval. The door opens into a small seating area decorated in muted shades of gray. The bedroom is styled in the same muted shades, and a pair of charcoal armchairs are positioned to offer a view of the verdant castle grounds. Although I had been hoping for something a bit more 15th century, the ambience is so restful that I can overlook the stylish modernity.
While the more romantic may be happily occupied by roaming the grounds and dreaming about knights of yore, Kilkea offers plenty of entertainment for those less inclined to flights of fancy. One of the crowning glories of the resort is the 18-hole golf course with stunning views of the castle. The clubhouse boasts the Bistro with a selection of beers sufficiently varied to please my thirsty English darling, while the more formal Hermione’s restaurant offers a sophisticated dinner menu and is renowned for its Sunday lunch.
Ironically, it’s a pair of Americans we have to thank for the glories of Kilkea. Boston-based Jay and Christy Cashman fell in love with Kilkea during their travels in Ireland and bought the property with a view to not only turning it into a luxury hotel and resort but making it a second home for themselves and their friends. Jay, a construction mogul, and Christy, an actress, writer, and accomplished equestrian, bought the castle in 2012. After five years and millions in extensive renovations, Jay and Christy have succeeded in preserving an important piece of Irish history, while creating a welcome retreat for their family and their guests.
Indeed, our stay at Kilkea felt like nothing so much as a country house party at a grand estate. When Jay and Christy are in residence (they try to visit about every six weeks), they relish playing host to guests. After a full day of country walks and horseback riding, we dressed for dinner in the grand Restaurant 1180. The gallery-style dining room is decorated in warm hues of old gold and royal blue and dominated by a long dining table swathed in white linen. Christy and Jay had assembled an eclectic group of family and friends, and the conversation flowed as freely as the wine.
Beautiful countryside, stunning medieval architecture, and a raft of country pursuits certainly combine for a cracking-good weekend. But thanks to Christy and Jay Cashman, Castle Kilkea offers something extra, an atmosphere of warmth and camaraderie that makes a stay at the castle truly a visit with friends.